BCBusiness
From grizzly sightings to four-course tasting menus, this all-inclusive eco-lodge proves you don’t have to rough it to experience the West Coast wilderness
“They’re more interested in the salmon than you.” It’s a promise our guide Cheyenne has made a number of times over the course of her Homalco Wildlife grizzly tour, and we simply have to believe it’s true—otherwise, my husband Max and I are doing something truly stupid, which is standing 30 feet away from a grizzly bear and her cub.
OK, it’s really not that dangerous. There’s a wide and rushing river between us and Mama Bear after all, and the Homalco First Nation, which runs the tour at the tip of Bute Inlet, has cultivated their understanding of (and respect for) grizzly behaviour over years of interactions—but part of the excitement of a wildlife experience like this is remembering there’s a reason this opportunity is so rare. Typically, a person who gets to see a grizzly this close is about to find themselves in some serious trouble. Today, the biggest actual threat Max and I face as we stand a mere stone’s throw away from the West Coast’s most majestic creature is that we might get into a fight over our shared pair of binoculars and have to get divorced.
Over the course of four hours, we journey through the mossy rainforest in a (presumably bear-proof) van in search of more encounters. Sometimes Cheyenne will pull over and we’ll hop out to peer over a bridge at a scruffy, meandering beast lazily scooping up lunch from the water with her basketball-sized paw. Other times we’ll clamber up an observation tower and wait, still and patient, to see if a black-nosed snout will poke through the brambles that line the river. When we spy one, it’s like a celebrity has arrived at a party: excited whispers sweep through the tour group. When we don’t catch a glimpse, our consolation prize is still pretty great: a moment of attentive quiet in the West Coast wilderness.
It feels almost surreal to be here—where the wild things are, as it were—given that just an hour earlier Max and I were relaxing in a hot tub near the head of this inlet at the Discovery Island’s Sonora Resort, getting some not-at-all-needed rest after a five-star helicopter ride from YVR. Of course, there are plenty of other ways to get up close and personal with nature that don’t involve Relais and Châteaux accommodations. But for two verified city slickers who do not and will not own a tent, Sonora is the opportunity we’ve been dreaming of to have our cake and eat it too (which, in this case, means getting to watch a 300-pound bear yawn and stretch in a sunbeam and then falling asleep in a plush king-sized bed).
We famously—famously!—are not campers, a very un-Vancouver fact we bonded over on our first date. We have hiked together maybe twice in our 12-year relationship. It’s not that we hate nature; it’s just that I am more of a beach gal and he is too busy planning something called a “Bird of the Decade Party” (real example) to actually go out and see birds in the flesh (er, the feather).
But when we city slickers do venture into the woods, we absolutely understand the fuss. Who can resist a lungful of cedar-fresh air, or the pleasantly springy feeling of walking on an earthen path thick with pine needles? When you’re privileged enough to be able to witness the humble routine of a glorious, glossy-coated beast, a creature that is somehow adorable and terrifying at once, how can you feel anything but awe?
Here’s the thing that Max and I are bravely proving as we hop back on the boat to Sonora after racking up seven grizzly sightings: you can appreciate the call of the wild, and the call of an award-winning wine cellar. You can be enraptured by the locally sourced four-course tasting menu served up each night by chef Justine Smith in the elegant wood-and-glass dining room, and be delighted by the sea lions splashing playfully in the bay below.
So, please, soak up the calls of the cormorants that bounce across the water as you soak in the mineral pools at the Island Current Spa before your sea salt and kelp body scrub treatment. Go ahead and rip through the Arran and Dent rapids on a Zephyr alongside porpoises and curious seals, and then keep the wildlife watch going through your picture window as you relax in your extra-deep bathtub. You can have it all: five-star comfort and intimate nature encounters, all in the same day.
The all-inclusive nature of the resort ensures your every need is cared for… which means our only priority is identifying bird calls and pointing out a splash here or there in the harbour. While campers are out there somewhere worrying about finding firewood or heating up their dehydrated mac ’n’ cheese before nightfall or whatever else is running through their heads as they lie on a damp and quietly deflating air mattress, Max and I step off the boat and onto the dock, purely in the moment.
We settle in at our favourite spot on the patio (yes, we’ve only been here a day, but we’ve made ourselves at home). The sun is peeking out from behind the clouds, making the water sparkle. Max orders an old fashioned; I get a glass of crisp Vancouver Island Brewing lager (with a lime, because vacation). We share a plate of local cheeses and honeycomb for a little sustenance; we just survived a bear encounter, after all. He points out a flock of ducks riding the waves. I spy minks scampering up the rocks. We’ll head up to our room in the stone-and-cedar lodge soon, and will be drifting off to sleep tucked under a goose-down duvet—but we’ll be doing it with visions of grizzlies dancing in our heads. Nature is calling, and from our luxurious little perch, we’re more than happy to answer.
Double-occupancy rooms at Sonora Resort start at $2,450 per night during peak season, with meals, beverages and amenities included; wilderness excursions and spa treatments priced separately. Air transport from YVR is $745 per person each way.