Gastown and Gastronomy: Bitter Tasting Room

Sean Heather, Bitter Tasting Room | BCBusiness
With the launch of Bitter Tasting Room restaurateur Sean Heather’s Gastown culinary empire expands again.

Bear in mind this 
deliciously bitter tale, 
take a dark-spirited 
recommendation and 
get lost in what can only be called a genuinely cheesy story.

The Expert: Sean Heather, 
co-owner, Bitter Tasting Room in Gastown

The Dish: Scotch egg, 
$3.95 each 

The Pairing: Big Smoke Ale, limited edition, single-batch brew, Russell Breweries Inc. and Storm Brewing Ltd., B.C., $20 (650ml)


The tradition of beer-making in B.C. dates back to the 1870s. Long before the wine industry got off the ground here in B.C., there was a 
huge beer culture. Bitter 
is as much an homage to 
that as it is to beer worldwide. 


Wherever we can, we delight in sourcing local product, large-format bottles and one-offs like Storm and Russell Brewing’s Big Smoke Ale. This is the first time we’re seeing two craft breweries in B.C. collaborate on one beer. 


It’s brewed using 10 per cent peat-smoked malt and Bravo and Willamette 
hops, then aged in whiskey barrels. It’s a malt-forward beer with a big smoke aroma and a well-balanced hop finish that works nicely with something garlicky and slightly spicy. I’ve chosen our Scotch egg. 


We use Rabbit River Farms free-run eggs, garlic sausage from JN&Z Deli, and house-made breadcrumbs. This beer’s smokiness and peatiness goes extremely well with the spiciness of sausage and the smooth, pâté-like texture of the egg yolk. The varying textures complement the bold flavour of the ale. And the sweetness of the egg is a nice balance with the sweet malt flavours in the beer. 


Regardless of your meal, you’ll want to drink this ale as you would a fine Scotch – slow and steady.

Drink Decoded

Image: Ben Oliver

We have a renewed respect for dark spirit cocktails, thanks to Gastown’s newest watering hole, Clough Club. From the classic Sazerac (circa 1850) to the house-named Clough Club Cocktail, you’ll find every concoction delightfully smooth. Try your hand at becoming one of Vancouver’s finest mixologists with this Clough Club Cocktail recipe: In a cocktail shaker add 2 oz Maker’s Mark bourbon, 1 oz Ramazotti Amaro, ¼ oz Agave nectar, ½ oz lemon juice, two dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters and 1 oz of egg white. Fill tin with ice, shake and strain into a rocks glass. Top with fresh ice and get sipping.
 $12, donnellygroup.ca

Say Cheese

“Opening three shops in four years wasn’t part of the master plan,” says Andrew Benton, who co-owns Vancouver’s Benton Brothers Fine Cheese shops with his sibling, Jonah. But the steep growth curve for this savoury startup is paying off in a city full of foodies, and business – from the public, wholesale clients and catering – is good. The brothers stock only small production, artisanal cheese from around the world, as well as tasty accoutrements such as charcuterie, nuts, dried fruits, terrines and jellies. B.C.’s best cheese-makers are also on the Bentons’ shelves, including Kootenay Mountain Alpine Cheese, The Farmhouse Natural Cheeses from Agassiz, and Vancouver Island’s Little Qualicum Cheese­works. Benton notes that, compared to Quebec or Europe, “the B.C. cheese industry is still essentially in its infancy . . . so it needs support from us and our customers, who always do a fantastic job of getting behind it.” bentonscheese.com –Kate MacLennan