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Nicli Antica Pizzeria's wine director, Matthew Morgenstern.
The acidic wonders of Aglianico, a cocktail to fight ?allergies (we swear!) and vinegars with flair. Ask an Oenophile The Expert: Matthew Morgenstern, wine director at Gastown’s Nicli Antica Pizzeria? The Dish: Prosciutto and arugula pizza, $19 ? The Pairing: Terredora Aglianico, Campania IGT, 2008, $46?
Nicli Antica Pizzeria’s wine director, Matthew Morgenstern.
The Expert: Matthew Morgenstern, wine director at Gastown’s Nicli Antica Pizzeria The Dish: Prosciutto and arugula pizza, $19 The Pairing: Terredora Aglianico, Campania IGT, 2008, $46
I love wine that portrays a sense of place. Wine enthusiasts talk of terroir as aromas and flavours specific to a region or even a single vineyard, but I believe terroir should also include the area’s history and culture. In Southern Italy’s Campania, the Aglianico grape has been harvested and vinified for over 3,000 years. The wine is rooted in their society; it belongs to them. The wine’s quality and popularity over time have fluctuated with the prosperity of Naples. Luckily for us, the winemakers of Campania have recently been producing great wines with amazing value.
The vineyards of Terredora Aglianico overlook Mount Vesuvius, the volcano that gave the rocks that built our Acunto Napoli wood-burning oven. Those rocks help create the characteristics of an authentic Neapolitan pizza: a light and fluffy cornicione, or crust, which has a patina of crunch and a soft, moist centre.
As with so many Italian wines, Aglianico has a noticeable acidity that works well with the tangy tomato sauce and salty prosciutto in our prosciutto e rucola pizza. The sauce also complements the ripe black cherry and plum flavours of the wine. But it’s the peppery fresh arugula that enhances the subtle spice and earth hiding in the glass.
Cassis, cuvee and champagne, “O” my! We love these barrel-aged wine vinegars from O Olive Oil. From elegant and refined to sparkling and crisp, each of the O vinegars echoes the body and flavour of its wine namesake. With 11 flavours in all, the artisanal vinegars are a tasty addition to a summer salad and add depth to any pasta sauce or marinade. $14.50, quince.ca
What keeps us coming back to The Keefer, aside from the cool Douglas Coupland artwork and street-front fire pit? The apothecary-influenced cocktails, which make full use of herbal ingredients found in nearby Chinatown shops. One of our favourites is the Tiger’s Tail, complete with house-made pineapple spice and astragalus syrup to keep allergies at bay. To make at home sans garnish, start with the syrup by bringing 2 cups of water to a boil and steeping 5 pieces of astragalus root for 15 minutes. Add 2 cups of sugar and stir to dissolve. Strain out the astragalus root, then muddle 5 pineapple chunks with a half-ounce of Campari and half-ounce of the syrup. Add 2 ounces of shochu and shake all ingredients vigorously with ice for 10 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass. $10, thekeeferbar.com